巴基斯坦 童話草原(一) 喀拉崑崙山脈

網路上的匯率: 1USD = 278 PKR (R)

但我們在機場換到 1USD = 252 PKR (R)


8/15晚上八點, 從伊斯蘭馬巴德搭上共乘計程車, 12小時的車程一路向北, 載我們到「童話草原」(Fairy Meadows, فیری میڈوز)的入口, 雷柯特大橋(Raikot Bridge)。


童話草原
童話草原為一國家公園, 是位在海拔三千多公尺的高山草原, 也是攀登八千多公尺的南迦帕爾巴特峰(Nanga Parbat)的起始點。要前往童話草原, 必須在雷柯特大橋搭上吉普車, 行駛過十五公里危險陡窄的山路才能抵達。

南迦帕爾巴特峰是世界第九高峰, 從童話世界的草原可以清楚看到她美麗的北壁(northface), 北壁一整個山面叫做「雷柯特側邊」(Rakhiot Flank)。若從印度河河谷平地開始, 經雷柯特側邊攀登南迦帕爾巴特峰山頂的話, 攀登行走距離僅25公里, 海拔高度卻上升的七千公尺, 是世界上十大海拔高度差最大的地方。

在童話草原可以清楚看到的「雷柯特側邊」。


Fary Meadows:
  • Locally known as Joot
  • Base camp sites of Nanga Parbat
  • 15k jeepable trek from Raikot Bridge to the village of Tattu(Tato)
  • Rakhiot valley grassland-tourists lodge-known as "Raikot Serai"
  • The high altitude area and north-facing slopes mostly consist of coniferous(針葉) forest, while in the high altitude areas with little sunlight are birch(樺) and willow dwarf shrubs. The southern slopes are concentrated with juniper(杜松子) and scrubs. Inthe low altitudes the major plant found is Artemisia, with yellow ash(梣), stone oaks(石櫟), spread among it. A few brown bears are found in the region. 


巴基斯坦的高峰們
Pakistan Tall Peaks

World rank        Pakistan rank        Height        Location            Name
2                        1                            8611           Karakoram        K2
9                        2                            8126           Himalaya          Nanga Parbat
11                      3                            8080           Karakoram        Gasherbrum I
27                      12                          7788           Karakoram        Rakaposhi      

在罕薩河谷可以眺望遠方的正三角形Rakaposhi山峰。


【Nanga Parbat】
  • 8126m, 9th highest mountain in the world
  • The westernmost major peak of the Himalayas
  • One of the 14 eight-thousands
  • Extremely difficult to climb
  • "Killer Mountain"-for its high number of climber fatalities
  • Derived from the sanskirt words. "Naked Mountain", the name refers to the south face, which is usually snowless
  • Tremendous vertical relief over local terrain in all directions
  • To the south, Nanga Parbat has the highest mountain face in the world: the Rupal Face rises 4600m above its base
  • The 2nd most prominent peak of the Himalayas, after Mount Everest
  • Know locally as "Diamer", King of the Mountains
  • It lies just south of the Indus River in the Diamer Distrct of Gilgit-Baltistan
  • The core of Nanga Parbat is a long ridge trending southwest-to-northeast. The ridge is composed of an enormous bulk of ice and rock
  • First climed via the Rakhiot Flank East Ridge in 1953 by Austrian climber Hermann Buhl



Karakoram喀拉崑崙山脈
  • Karakoram就是喀喇崑崙山脈, 以前只會在歷史課本上看到的名詞。位在巴基斯坦、中國、印度等邊境, 山脈西北邊更延伸至阿富汗與塔吉克。喀喇崑崙山脈大部分位在巴基斯坦的「吉爾吉特-巴提斯坦」(Gilgit-Baltistan)地區。
  • 喀喇崑崙山脈有18座超過7500公尺的山峰、四座超過8000公尺的山峰。山脈範圍長度約500公里, 是南北極之外冰川最多的地方。
  • 高山K1到K2的字首「K」, 就是源自於Karakoram。
  • It is a mountain range in the Kashmir region spanning the border of Pakistan, China, and India, with the northwestern extremity of the range extending to Afganistan and Tajikistan. Most of the Karakoram mountain range falls under the jurisdiction of Gilgit-Baltistan.
  • Contains 18 summits higher than 7500m, with 4 above 8000m
  • The range is about 500km in length, is the most glaciated place on earth outside the polar regions.
  • The Southern boundary is formed by the Gilgit, Indus and Shyok rivers.
  • Roughly in the middle of the Karakoram range is the Karakoram Pass, which was part of a historic trade route. 
  • Karakoram: a Turkic term meaning "black gravel"
  • Surveyor Thomas Montgovnerie in the 1850s gave the labels K1 to K6, K for Karakoram.

說到喀喇崑崙山脈, 就要提到喀喇崑崙公路Karakoram Highway, 這趟旅行中我們就是在這條公路南北跑, 也在這條公路上遇到人生最恐怖的土石流。這條公路長1300公里, 直接通到新疆。


【出發前在Youtube上看的喀喇崑崙公路紀錄片】
  • The lost Utopia in Pakistan's mountains
  • KKH Documentory- Where men and mountains meet


雷柯特大橋(Raikot Bridge)之交通
  • 從伊斯出發的話, 約有兩個選擇, 搭乘NATCO公司前往北方大城Gilgit的大巴, 在雷柯特大橋下車, 車程15個小時, 車資2500R(網路上寫的價格, 實際上可能更貴)。或像我們一樣, 搭共乘計程車8000R, 12個小時。
  • 從雷柯特大橋到童話草原, 要再搭1.5小時的吉普車, 吉普車一輛來回計價, 網路上說7600R, 現場則是說16100R, 不是算人頭, 所以要找到其他人共乘比較划算。

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